Journal — Notes from Kot Kailash, Shaukiyathal, Kumaon

Journal

Notes from the ridge.
Written in season.

On Kumaon, the Shauk community, the temples, the crops, and the conditions that make Shaukiyathal worth writing about.

The Community
The Community

What the Shauk traders knew that the plains have forgotten.

The routes between the Gangetic plains and Tibet were not trade routes in the modern sense. They were relationships. The Shauk community was built around the patience to maintain them.

September 2024 · 6 min read
Jageshwar
Jageshwar

A hundred and twenty-four temples. Two kilometres from the bedroom.

Jageshwar Dham is not a pilgrimage site the way Haridwar is. It does not ask for urgency. The stone has been here for over a thousand years. It has learned how to wait.

August 2024 · 5 min read
Tehni
Tehni

On bhatt, mandua, and the crops that survived because no one marketed them.

Black soybeans. Finger millet. Wild herbs that grow on the edges of the terraced fields. These ingredients survived precisely because they were too local, too specific, too Kumaoni to export.

July 2024 · 5 min read
The Restoration
The Restoration

Mud plaster and the craftsmen who still know how to press it.

The old technique uses red clay, rice husk, and cow dung — pressed in layers with the flat of the palm. Two craftsmen in the village still know how. One of them is seventy-three.

June 2024 · 7 min read
The Seasons
The Seasons

The buransh blooms for three weeks. Most people miss it.

Rhododendron arboreum. The Uttarakhand state tree. At Shaukiyathal it flowers in late March, when the night temperature is still below 10 degrees. The flowers become sherbet the same day they are picked.

March 2024 · 3 min read

New notes from the ridge, written in each season.

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